2000 Chevy Astro Awd Front End Axel And Suspension Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I bought a 05 AWD Astro with 136K that I am converting into a camper. I intend on doing a 2" body lift and putting larger tires on it for mild off-road activity.
I just noticed that the van has a cracked stabilizer bar, so I am going to replace that and do the idler arms at the same time.
From the look of the rest of the suspension parts, I am guessing that they are all original. They look like this :
Any suggestions on what else I should replace while I have the van in the air and the front end taken apart?
FYI, I'm new at auto repair. I have done a fair amount of work on my little Saturn S-series, but it is so much simpler under there than this AWD beast.
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2000 Lifted 4x4 Astro 92 V8-350 Shorty
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What I notice even more from the looks of your photos... is that these parts don't appear to have been lubed in quite some time! This could lead to a possibly dangerous condition.
If nothing else... clean off those fittings and zerk them up!
Especially the ball-joints!
Some of these parts "can" go a very long time... others not.
Everything should be wiggled, pried, and checked!
I just changed some tie-rod ends on my 92 that had close to 300K original on them. They weren't terrible... but the idler arms have been changed several times already.
Your results may vary.... 
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How big is your budget. Parts for astros are CHEAP and plentiful. You could replace EVERYTHING in the steering/suspension components for around $600 if you do it all yourself. For piece of mind, I would ( and did on mine) replace everything up there that you are comfortable and capable of changing. Since its new to you and admittedly a noob you might not be able to spot something that is really quite bad. And like MM said, they already look in rough shape.
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Yeah, those look to be pretty dry and old. Check on rockauto and price the pieces to rebuild the front end, you will be surprised how affordable it really is. It's also a very straight forward job, every part of the front end (and rear) on mine is new and there wasn't anything really hard about it...and I was dealing with 14 years of good ol Ohio rust on the nuts and bolts!
Common Sense + Critical Thinking
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Might as well while you are in there, then get an alignment and be done with it(other than grease) for a long time.
Piece your own 2" lift together and save a bunch of $ there as well.
2000 Lifted 4x4 Astro 92 V8-350 Shorty
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You can buy complete front end kits... save yourself some money vs buying individually
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The only thing I would add is the upper control arms, looks like that kit only comes with the lowers.
Also, while you have the whole front end apart now would be a great time to do the wheel bearings and cv joints.
When I did mine I did the wheel bearings but not the cv joints... about a month later the passenger side outer joint went bad and of course to get to them you have to pretty much take the whole front end back apart! :roll: lesson learned.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Whoops! I meant ball joints. Rock Auto says that those shocks need forged ball joints.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It seems like most people on here opt to replace the lower and upper ball joints with the Moog problem solvers instead of replacing the entire control arm, that comes with the r-series ball joints. The stock control arms do not look damaged in any way. Is this recommended?
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I don't imagine they will "look" damaged. People replace them as an assembly because they are cheap, and come with new bushings.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It seems like since I am spending the money to rebuild the front end with better than original parts, that I should stay away from ball joints that are listed in the Economy section of Rockauto. Am I putting too much stock in the categorization of their stock?
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Moog Problem Solver, do it once, do it right, lifetime warranty and if you do need a warranty replacement, Rock Auto is great to deal with.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Corsemoto, are you suggesting that I
a. keep my stock control arms and replace the ball joints and bushings with the problem solvers?
or
b. purchase new control arms and replace the included ball joints and bushings with problem solver parts?
-moog does not make control arms for the astro in the problem solver line.
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The economy line is just that, they are not premium quality parts.
Replacing bushings (and ball joints) in the your control arms is a bit more work but you'd be using be better quality parts for less money and your control arms are probably fine. They mostly sell the complete control arm assemblies for convenience.
I wouldn't bother buying new control arms (unless one is damaged for some reason) and replacing bushings.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks! I have more time than money these days, plus I could use the experience.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here is my shopping cart.
KYB 565062 MonoMax Front Shocks x2
MOOG K6292 PS Upper Ball joints x2
MOOG K6291 PS Lower Ball joints x2
MOOG K6417 PS Control arm bushings
MOOG ES2838RL PS Inner tie rod x2
MOOG ES3254RL PS Outer tie rod x2
MOOG ES2004S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve x2
TIMKEN 710491 Axel Shaft Seal x2
DORMAN 924003 Sub Frame Bushing x 2
I already bought a new doorman sway bar (original is cracked) and moog idler arms (on clearance!).
I think I will skip the CV Axels for now, unless the CARDONE SELECT ($44) or SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE ($52) Axels are worth getting. The ACDelcos are $300 !!
I'm also going to wait on the bearings/hub assembly for now, since those can be replaced independently of everything else, right?
Any final thoughts before I push the checkout button?
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Man, Id get it done while its all open. Maybe it's just me, I hate revisiting things after they are all done.
Also, get the cv axles at NAPA, get the reman ones (per Leeanns instructions) they are the right length and a good price, if you have AAA you get a discount. A lot of the new axles are too short and will pop in and out while you drive.
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turntupturnip said:
Thanks! I have more time than money these days, plus I could use the experience.
If you are replacing the control arm bushings you need a press of some kind. You can burn the old ones out but the new ones need to be pressed in. You need to rig up a homebrew press or pay a shop to do it. A local shop quoted me $10 each bushing plus tax so close to $90 labor.
The rebuild kits come with new bushings already installed but they are not the premium bushings.
I did my front end a little bit at a time. I wish I would have just done it all at once.
Posted by: orvilleorvillebalascoe0269297.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.astrosafari.com/threads/noob-questions-about-front-end-rebuild.121569/
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